EARLY SEASON 2018
Words and pictures by Martin
Longhurst
On a bright Friday
morning (25 May 2018), Waverley started her sailings for the year with a spin
from Glasgow, Greenock and Dunoon to Loch Long, turning off the mouth of Loch Goil.
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Two
other steam ships encountered at Glasgow were Queen Mary and VIC32 |
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It was a good start
to the season, following the completion during the previous week of the
replacement of the paddler’s rudder stock, the component that attaches the
rudder to her hull. The next day, 29
May, saw
Tighnabruaich as her
destination. We partook of ice cream at
Susie’s Tea Room during the time ashore there.
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New
colour scheme and wind direction indicator |
Another
meet with VIC32 |
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The
new Glen Sannox under construction at Port Glasgow |
Zuiderdam
alongside at Greenock |
Sunday saw the
steamer head for Lochranza. Although the weather was still fine, there was a
brisk easterly breeze which made our landing at the North Arran pier
impossible, with the wind funnelled down the glen. Rothesay was the goal on Monday, the
short-day schedule being chosen to give the crew a good break before the
following day’s 13 plus hour sailing to Oban.
Just over 200 were on board the steamer as she rounded the Mull of
Kintyre in perfect conditions.
A much smaller
complement joined Waverley as she continued her journey northwards. Jenny and I had opted to drive following the
travails in previous years, so we joined the paddler at Armadale for the short
trip to Inverie for an hour ashore.
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On
our way north we were held up while a convoy of wind
turbine blades passed by |
Waverley
approaching Armadale |
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Alongside at the extremely remote Inverie Pier |
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The
regular ferry MV Western Isles arrived from Mallaig |
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MV
Lord of the Isles departing from Armadale while MV Loch Fyne arrives |
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Waverley
going astern before heading for Kyle of Lochalsh |
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Following this sail,
we drove to Kyle of Lochalsh while the steamer serenely followed us north.
Waverley hidden by a cargo of
timber about to be loaded
After spending the
night alongside at the small Highland town, Waverley passed under the Syke
Bridge on course for Portree. The paddler
continued northwards before turning north-westwards to call at Gairloch, whence
a non-landing cruise to Loch Torridon was given. The turnouts from Kyle and Portree were
disappointing but there was a respectable number from Gairloch. Friday took the
steamer back to Portree for a circumnavigation of the Isle of Raasay, also
offered from Raasay’s new pier.
Departing for Armadale and Oban
After her return to
Kyle, Waverley set out on her repositioning voyage to Armadale and Oban with
between 20 and 30 enjoying a beautiful cruise.
The steamer made a fine sight sailing into Oban Bay to tie up at the
North Pier.
Saturday 2 June 2018
dawned misty and grey. Unfortunately,
the still conditions did not help disperse the fog – in fact, it thickened as the
10.00 sailing time approached. Waverley has to go astern across Oban Bay to leave the port, so it is
essential to be able to see the Isle of Kerrera when
departing.
Looking west across Oban Bay –
note Kerrera obscured by fog
We had to wait 50 minutes
for sufficient visibility. The timetable
was to take us to Armadale and Inverie. It was reasonably clear while we transited
the Sound of Mull but shortly after passing Tobermory,
we ran into a fog bank which reduced our visibility to a few hundred feet. Captain O’Brian contacted other ships in the
area and established the only clear area was the Sound of Mull. The previous delay and the current enforced
reduction in speed meant it was now impossible to reach Armadale and return to
Oban in the day, so we turned back about one mile west of the Ardnamurchan
Light. Fortunately, it was possible to
arrange to call at Tobermory Pier to give us two
hours ashore at the Mull town.
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MV
Loch Linnhe at Tobermory |
Waverley
moored at Tobermory Pier |
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Waverley
salutes MV Isle of Lewis heading from Oban to Barra |
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Waverley arrived back
at Oban just after 20.00 after a quick spin down the Firth of Lorn to cruise the western coast of Kerrera.
Although the mist returned
on Sunday, the later departure time of 12.30 allowed time for it to lift before
the steamer undertook her ‘Four Lochs and a Whirlpool’ cruise. The tides dictated that the Gulf of Corryvreckan was visited first and the passage was through
undisturbed waters. Lochs Crinan, Craignish and Melfort
followed with the fourth “honorary loch”, the Sound of Shuna
concluding the quartet. The return to
Oban was via the Sound of Kerrera.
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CalMac’s
new Kerrera ferry MV Carvoria |
Entering
Oban Bay from the Sound of Kerrera |
The mist was still a
problem on the Monday. When the MV Isle
of Mull entered the harbour about 08.15, all we could see was her
waterline! She crept in very slowly and
seemed to stop before vanishing completely.
Later the mist eased, and we could confirm she was at her berth. Fortunately, visibility was acceptable by
Waverley’s departure time of 10.00. So the steamer was able to leave on time and head out to
follow the coast of Mull in a south-westerly direction. This is a very impressive and remote place,
the cliffs gradually tapering down to the western tip. Here we ran into another fog bank. Slowly, and with much sounding of the whistle,
we turned north and soon we could see Iona as we cleared the fog. Course was then set for Staffa, Captain
O’Brian slowing the ship so we could enjoy the
Fingal’s Cave and the basalt columns.
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The
unmistakable Isle of Staffa |
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Then round to port to
head north-west to the Isle of Coll. An hour
ashore was offered or a coastal cruise to view Gunna
Sound, which separates the isles of Coll and Tiree.
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Arinagour
Pier, Isle of Coll. Note Swiss flag
flown to honour some visitors |
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A splendid passage back
followed, with Oban reached in good time.
Tuesday saw Waverley return to her home base at Glasgow.
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