Western
Isles 2010
Report and pictures by Martin Longhurst
Waverley’s 2010 season
started in fine style with a five day Western Isles season. The paddler looked very smart throughout, the
newly painted funnels sparkling in the morning sun.
We arrived at Glasgow Science Centre at 06.40 on Friday 28 May 2010
just as two catering delivery vehicles were driving away. Walking round the corner of the building we
were amazed to see a queue of about 400 waiting to board. Gradually everyone got on board, the weekend
passengers stowing their luggage in the forward observation saloon. Sailing time was 07.00 but it was five
minutes later before all intending passengers had joined the ship. A further short delay ensued as we awaited a
sandwich delivery. Two late passengers
arrived breathless at this point – very lucky to get their sail! Eventually the stewards gave up and the
gangway was lowered on deck – naturally at this point the van turned up and the
gangway put out again for them to be carried aboard.
Finally we moved off, slowly going astern to cant round the knuckle of
the dock entrance. By 07.20 we were
able to go ahead and head down river for Greenock, Campbeltown, Port Ellen and Oban. Unfortunately when the cant rope was let go
from the quay it got trapped in the fendering and had to be left behind, to be
recovered from the river later by the dockers.
Once past the Govan shipyard, where HMS Duncan was on the stocks, we
went below for a hearty breakfast. Soon
the chill of the morning brought many more to the Dining Saloon. It was low water and we had to slow so as to
pass an inbound ship under the Erskine Bridge.
Greenock was our first call of the day and a further crowd joined
here.
The sun was having more effect now as we cleared the Cloch Light and
steered south. Our passage was to take
us between the islands of Bute and Arran and through the Kilbrannan Sound to
Campbeltown, where a further 40 or so came aboard. Waverley
was soon rounding the Mull of Kintyre in perfect conditions with clear views of
the coast of Northern Ireland stretching across the horizon. Further round the islands of Islay and Jura
appeared, the nearest point being 20 miles away. There were seven passengers for Port Ellen
and this year they were lucky as conditions allowed the planned call to go
ahead, albeit about an hour late as the steamer was running at reduced speed.
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Left: The Dutch three master Thalassa
was moored at Port Ellen Above: Soon after leaving Port Ellen, we encountered CalMac’s
Hebridean Isles and exchanged whistle blasts. |
Approaching the northern tip of Jura, Captain O’Brien announced we would
pass through the Gulf of Corryvreckan as this would give us a more favourable
tide. At first we were punching the
tide through the passage and this halved our speed. The waters were confused and eddies could be
observed in numerous places. As we
emerged and turned north again, Lord of
the Isles was spotted on her evening trip from Colonsay to Oban. She followed the paddler through the Sound
of Kerrera into Oban Bay before making for her berth at the Railway Pier while
our steamer swept round to moor at the North Pier.
After the glorious weather on Friday, it was disappointing to wake up
the next day to grey skies. Almost as
soon as we boarded Waverley, spots of
rain started falling. With over 600 on
board for the trip to Tobermory, Armadale and Inverie, this was a great
disappointment. Every seat was taken
inside but some hardy souls were able to stay on deck except in the heavier
spells of rain. Some people decided to
change their plans and got off at Tobermory and returned to Oban by bus and
ferry. Again the reduced speed was
affecting the steamer’s schedule and Captain O’Brien put back our return time
from Armadale to avoid clashing with the Mallaig ferry Coruisk. This meant
passengers could avoid waiting in the rain unnecessarily. By the time we docked at Inverie it was
‘almost dry’ and it stayed that way for another three hours before drying up
completely.
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Left: Passengers go ashore at Inverie |
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Right: Waverley alongside Inverie Pier |
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25 minutes ashore was allowed at the Knoydart village – home of the
remotest pub on the British mainland and only accessible by sea or on foot –
and a large number of passengers took the opportunity to stretch their legs
strolling through the small village.
Back to Armadale to pick those who had elected to spend time on the Isle
of Skye, passing Coruisk shortly
after she had left the Skye pier.
70 years ago to the day, the previous Clyde paddle steamer Waverley had been sunk at 17.46 on 29 May
1940 while evacuating 600 troops from Dunkirk.
The ship was stopped and a simple ceremony was held on deck to mark the
moment. Captain O’Brien introduced
Commodore Angus Ross RN who explained how the Waverley – at the time HMS
Waverley – had come to be present so far from her home. He then went on to read from the Official
Record of her last day culminating in her sinking after attack by German
aircraft. Finally, a wreath was laid on
the sea to commemorate the 180-200 personnel who lost their lives. During the day two Royal Marine Commandos
collected over £1,000 for the Royal Marines Benevolent Fund.
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Commodore Ross makes his speech – note the
wreath on deck ready to be laid Photo by Deryk Docherty |
The plaque recording HMS Waverley’s war service |
Some crew members had special polo shirts |
The sun started to come out as we approached Ardnamurchan Lighthouse to
re-enter the Sound of Mull. After the
call at Tobermory we were soon back at Oban.
Docking at Oban’s North Pier just after
sunset - note the floodlit McCaig’s Folly at the hill top
Keen passengers had an early start on Sunday as a Sunrise Special
return sailing to Fort William was given.
About 80 took the trip and most enjoyed a Waverley breakfast on the way up Loch Linnhe. We had about 25 minutes ashore at the
Lochaber town before the main cruise of the day departed at 09.45.
Alongside at Fort William with Souter’s Lass
waiting to return to the pier and the ferry moored nearby
This was the four lochs and a whirlpool sail, calling at Oban both
ways. On the way back to Oban, Captain
O’Brien took the paddler down the western side of Lismore, giving us a view of
the huge Glen Sanda quarry. Leaving
Oban there was a very good load on as we headed south for Lochs Melfort, Shuna,
Craignish and Crinan. Finally we passed
between the islands of Jura and Scarba through the Gulf of Corryvreckan. The tide was running the other way today and
this boosted Waverley’s speed over
the ground to 19 knots!
Approaching Oban we had to slow down to await the departure from North
Pier of the small cruise ship Quest. Lord
of the Isles passed us, outbound for Colonsay, with Waverley supporter Margaret Skee waving vigorously from the ship’s
open deck. An evening cruise to Fort
William was also offered with coach return.
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The paddler departs from Oban North Pier
for Fort William |
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Lord of the Isles passes Waverley in the
Sound of Kerrera |
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This meant that Monday’s sail to Tiree actually started from Fort
William at 07.00. The good weather
continued and outstanding views ware had all day.
After the Tobermory call, Clansman was
spotted inbound from the Outer Isles and more whistle blasts were exchanged.
We headed out to Tiree across a smooth sea and as we neared Coll we
could see Lord of the Isles
approaching Arinagour Pier on her way back to Oban.
Landfall was made at Scarinish Pier where most passengers got off for a
run ashore. About 50 Tireeneans boarded
for a short cruise to the Gunna Sound, which separates Coll from Tiree. They enjoyed exploring the ship, watching
the engines, buying souvenirs and seeing their island from the sea.
Waverley alongside Scarinish Pier, Isle of
Tiree – Photo by Geoffrey Vickery
During the return passage there were stunning views of both distant and
close islands. The Paps of Jura could
be seen to the south while there were glimpses of Barra and South Uist some 50
miles to the north. Once east of Coll,
a vista of Canna, Rhum, Eigg and Muck opened out, with the Red and Black
Cuillins of Skye beyond. All too soon
we entered the Sound of Mull and made our final call of the short season at
Tobermory.
Here we again encountered the red hulled cruise ship Expedition anchored for the night –
earlier we had spotted her heading north from the direction of Iona. For the paddler’s final arrival at Oban, we
were preceded into Oban Bay by the Isle
of Mull, which had left Craignure Pier just before we passed the small
village. Passengers from Fort William
were returned by coach.
Spending her last night at Oban’s North Pier
The following day, 1 June, the steamer sailed south, calling at
Campbeltown on the way to Largs. The
planned Port Ellen call could not take place as the pier was occupied. Just over 100 took the coach back to Oban
while about 90 stayed with the paddler as steamed to Largs via the Kilbrannan
Sound. The terminal port was switched
from Ayr to Largs as shipping movements precluded the steamer from lying
alongside overnight at Ayr.